Promoting a pruned look

Removal of dead cells forms part of the natural cycle of every living organism, be it a mammal, reptile or a tree. For human beings, it manifests in removal of dead skin and cuticles, while for reptiles, the process is more significant in the shedding of skin. However, not many are aware that trees too should be perceived as undergoing such phenomenon when they shed their leaves. Old has to give way for the new and it is not any different with plant life. However, with plants, we can get our way, by pruning away the old and unwanted parts much before it is done the natural way.

Most often pruning is associated either with hedges, border plants or topiaries, or with fruiting varieties such as grapes, and apples. Among the ornamental plants, only roses are construed to have the requirement. Contrary to the common perception, almost all the plants and trees need pruning to lead a disease-free life with vigorous growth of foliage.

“Every plant needs to be pruned to promote new vegetative growth and inflorescence leading to higher yield of fruits. Old foliage becomes less conducive to transpiration due to various reasons such as dust accumulation, insect attack and other such problems. Pruning leads to better absorption and photosynthesis,” says M. M. Hussain (Ph: 9848024654) from Plants Land Nursery.
Food consumption

Another benefit of pruning is the optimisation of food consumption. Decimation of branches results in lesser food requirements and hence the excess nutrients will be diverted to the growth of new branches, in a way forcing the tree to throw out fresh shoots. This is particularly true when the trees are transplanted from one location to the other. Pruning of foliage before uprooting the tree will sustain it after the transplantation when due to shock the tree will not be able to absorb nutrients from the new soil.

Planned pruning will also result in better crop, a fact noticed in case of trees such as guava, pomegranate, and ber. The plants are starved for a period of one to one-and-a-half months before the planned crop, till they shed all their foliage. Then the plant is provided with fresh compost, watering and pest management, which will lead to vigorous growth of new foliage, flowering and thus, fruits.

When it comes to ornamental plants, most often, the ones to get pruned would be roses.

“Roses are pruned twice a year, at the beginning of the monsoon and the winter respectively. Heavy pruning should be done at least once, which means that except for the prominent stems, the plants should lose all other branches and leaves. Then the plant should be fed with manure, fertiliser and pest control,” says Mr. Hussain.

Pruning is in no way the privilege of roses. Though vigorous growth of flower shrubs fills the gardener with pride, it should not keep him away from regular pruning. The bigger the plant becomes, the greater the requirement of nutrition. With older branches refusing to flower as much as the new ones, the uncut bushes will end up with more of foliage and less of flowers. Also, the ones without the touch of secateurs will soon grow out of shape.
Within time

It is advisable to prune the foliage and also the roots of potted ornamental plants such as Dieffenbachia, and Philodendrons at the time of annual or biennial re-potting. Roots of a few Asparagus varieties, if not pruned, will occupy the whole pot, leaving no space for soil and nutrients.

In case of climbers such as Adenocalymna, Bougainvillea and Bignonia, pruning should be carried out before the plant is allowed to flower, while in case of winter bloomers, it is advised to prune the tips much before the season begins. Trees and thick branches should be pruned with a saw to get a smooth cut, lest the jagged ends and peeling of bark should lead to stem dry-back.

“Mowing the lawn regularly and also raking it once a year can also be termed as pruning.

In the event of heavy fungal diseases and insect attacks, pruning is recommended along with application of pesticide,” says Mr.Hussain.

Sharp secateurs is a must to administer clean cuts, after which a paste of fungicide and insecticide may be applied or sprayed on the exposed parts. When a stem is cut for propagation, the location of cuts should be based on the number of nodes and the distance between two nodes.

Cuts should be given just above the top node and just below the bottom node of the required stem, to avoid stem dry-back. Cut ends have to be slightly slanting to avoid infections.

If a plant has to be trained straight, side and lower branches need to be pruned and if the requirement is of a good canopy, then the top foliage should be trimmed regularly.